Asia | Sweet success

Liquorice flourishes in salty soils of the dried-up Aral Sea

Karakalpakstan is the sweet root’s new production hub

|Nukus

They put liquorice in their vodka in Karakalpakstan. Its sweetness softens the local liquor, Qarataw (named for the nearby mountain range), making it a surprisingly palatable tipple.

Karakalpakstan itself offers no such respite. The vast autonomous republic in western Uzbekistan, spanning the Aral Sea, is an environmental disaster zone. Soviet-era central planners sucked the sea dry to irrigate cotton fields, turning the world’s fourth-largest lake into a puddle. The roads around Nukus, the region’s capital, are crusted with salt, a memory of the dried-up sea.

This article appeared in the Asia section of the print edition under the headline “Sweet success”

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